A Tale of Two Richmonds: Exploring the River City’s namesake in England
With its friendly people, thriving arts scene and excellent restaurants, the River City has plenty to love. But what of its namesake “across the pond”? Richmond, Virginia, was named after Richmond, England, after all.
William Byrd II, the planter, lawyer, surveyor and enslaver who founded our city, named Virginia’s Richmond after England’s. The view of the James River from atop Libby Hill reminded Byrd of the view of the River Thames from atop Richmond Hill, hence the name.
Located roughly 45 minutes southwest from Central London by public transit, Richmond, England, is an upscale exurb full of charming shops, pubs and excellent views of the river. In recent years, this town of roughly 21,000 people has become a mecca for fans of “Ted Lasso”; the Apple TV comedy-drama about an American coaching an English soccer team is set here.
Here’s what The Richmonder discovered on three recent visits to the English town that inspired the River City.
Richmond Station
If you’re taking public transit, Richmond Station will be your literal first stop. The station is the western terminus for both the District line of the Tube and the Mildmay line of the Overground, London’s suburban railway system.
The building itself is a 1937 art deco beauty that finished a complete refurbishment last year. After scaling the stairs from the platform level, take a left in the lobby and you’ll find a tourism kiosk with helpful maps and guides. One such guide is a “Ted Lasso” walking route that highlights local shooting locations.
Richmond Green
Richmond Green is an open green space located a couple blocks southwest from the train station. While it was once the scene of medieval jousts and cricket games, modern visitors are probably more familiar with its appearances in “Ted Lasso,” including the pilot.
The Princes Head
When Ted Lasso and Coach Beard grab a pint, they usually end up at The Princes Head. Located at a corner of Richmond Green, this cozy pub is where Lasso schools Rebecca Welton’s ex-husband on the finer points of dart throwing. Even if you don’t care for Ted Lasso, The Princes Head is a cozy pub with warm fire places and mulled wine when the weather gets cold.
Paved Court
“Ted Lasso” fans will instantly recognize the Paved Court. While the interior of Lasso’s apartment is filmed in a studio, this is where Ted Lasso’s front door and the quaint shops around it are filmed. In the show, his address is No. 9 ½, but it’s No. 11a. in real life.
At the Official Ted Lasso Store, those who want to “Believe” can purchase all manner of T-shirts, soccer jerseys and other Greyhounds-affiliated bric-a-brac. For my money, a Richmond FC football scarf makes the perfect gift for a “Ted Lasso”-loving brother.
The Paved Court recently went viral for a brazen daytime jewelry heist. On Jan. 31, two masked and hooded men smashed out the window of a jewelry store with a sledgehammer and stuffed handfuls of jewelry into an IKEA bag before making their getaway.
The White Cross
In Richmond, Virginia, White Cross is a legendary homegrown hardcore band that played with Minor Threat back in the day and received a shoutout in the documentary “American Hardcore.”
In Richmond, England, The White Cross is a riverside pub of distinction for a novel reason: its patio floods during high tides. According to the pub’s website, the flooding occurs any time the River Thames raises more than 4.5 meters above low tide. While I’ve missed this phenomenon on my visits to Richmond, social media videos show drinkers scrambling indoors with pints in hand as the water rises.
When I stopped in the place was in full swing ahead of a televised rugby match between England and Wales. The pub is located on the Richmond Riverside, a pleasant walkway along the Thames.
The Old Ship
With its dark wood paneling and friendly staff, The Old Ship is the type of traditional British pub you dream about. When I visited, the place was packed in advance of the rugger, but still carried a friendly, cozy vibe. The Old Ship is the oldest pub in Richmond, with a building dating back to the 18th century; it has operated under its current name since the 1780s.
Duck Pond Market
Located in Heron Square, the Duck Pond Market takes place on Saturdays and Sundays. This small but charming bazaar offers a mix of art and consumables, including artisanal pretzels, home-harvested honey, and biltong, South Africa’s quintessential meat snack.
Richmond Hill
Richmond Hill is the picturesque view that gave the River City its name, and standing atop Richmond Hill, you can see why — the bend in the river looks strikingly similar. Though William Byrd II was born in Henrico County, he was schooled in England and lived on Richmond Hill before returning to Virginia.
Described by Sir Walter Scott as “an unrivaled landscape,” this view has been immortalized by poets like Robert Bridges, Edmund Spenser and Alexander Pope, as well as painters, including John Wootton, Sir Joshua Reynolds and J.M.W. Turner.
Richmond Park
Walk a short distance from the Richmond Hill overlook and you’ll come across the Richmond Gate of Richmond Park, a massive greenspace that was created as a deer preserve by Charles I.
Supposedly this place is still filled with deer, but I didn’t see any when I visited. To be fair, it was pouring rain. I primarily encountered mud and a few Brits on a ramble with their dogs.
Kew Gardens
Located close to Richmond, Kew Gardens boasts the most diverse collection of botanicals and fungus of anywhere in the world. This 300-acre UNESCO World Heritage Site is large enough that it has its own police force and Tube station.
The Palm House is probably Kew’s best-known structure. Dating back to 1848, this domed hothouse of metal and glass feels like stepping back in time to the Victorian era. Keep an eye out for the Old Age Plant, a giant cycad from the Eastern Cape province of South Africa that was brought to Kew in 1775. According to Kew, it is the world’s oldest potted plant. Get there quick: the Palm House is scheduled to close in 2027 for a five-year renovation.
Other sites of interest include: The Temperate House, the world’s largest surviving Victorian glasshouse; The Great Pagoda, a ten-story structure that the academic journal Architectural History called “the most important surviving chinoiserie building in Europe”; and the Treetop Walkway, a footpath through the garden’s tree canopy that’s 60 feet above the ground.
Five Guys
If you’re sick of fish and chips and find yourself missing the taste of home, there’s a Five Guys in the center of Richmond. The Alexandria-based chain has a surprisingly large footprint here — 48 locations in Greater London, according to the company’s website — including directly across from St. Paul’s Cathedral.
